how to polish burnished shoes

I just bought some Doc’s and am pumped this site has already covered everything I need/will need to know. the shine has increased int he last 4 coats. David – No worries David…sorry that we weren’t able to confidently agree on a size for my shoes…hopefully they will be selling in the States soon…. Again, I dab my finger into the water, then dab my two polish fingers into the wax, apply the drops of water onto the leather, then rub away the water with the polish in circular motions. But if your noticing your shoes looking particularly dry, use Saphir Crème Universelle in-between cleaning and polishing. I work at C&J and its good to see people truely taking care of their shoes, nothing like polishing a great pair of English made shoes. It’s important to mention the extra care your shoes need during these colder months. I appreciate your input, and thanks for all the information you have shared. Is there anything I can to treat or reseal the leather in those areas? Wanted to know what you recommened for the leather care on those. Harmon Siegel – I am happy to hear that you have been enjoying the blog and have started treating your shoes with polish love because of it. Sometimes using the moist polish will never allow the leather to be dry enough to truly set in the polish”. Until you do what do you recommend. I would appreciate any advice you’re willing to give that might help me stand out and look professional. I would be very glad for help. What edge dressing do you prefer? The way that I do this, is to again affix the t-shirt to my hand, and then lightly dab my wedding finger (or equivalent on right hand) into the tin of water to get a drop of it on the tip to then apply to the leather before polishing over. To be honest, I don’t put conditioner on my soles at all. Maybe every Sly – yes i have used this method…not with precise measurements or anything but parts water parts alcohol, but as far as it being the true shine, well I just can’t really say that the results are all that different…the best shine is done by burning the wax into the pores, thus creating a true flat surface, which makes you able to create a real mirror shine, like the military gentleman do on their boots…..polish and faucet water seems to do me just fine…. It is my pleasure to try and be that guy for all of you…as per your questions, here you go: -Good question in reality…I have always just assumed horsehair was best as this is what I believe to be ‘common knowledge’, whether it really is I can’t say…I don’t really use a brush to get a shine so for me it’s not really that important, just as long as the bristles are not too soft and bring out a glow, that is what matters to me…. A wax polish. Thanks Justin, this is very clearly explained and I look forward to giving my shoes a proper polish. They are quite old but still in amazing condition. Polish in actuality is something that if done excessively without conditioning will dry out your leather and cause it to crack. Picture at bottom of this column of pictures: 1 tin of dry wax polish, 1 tin of fresh (and moist) wax polish, 1 tin of water (on the right). In fact the areas that needed the most vigourous rubbing polished up perfectly. On older shoes the darker areas are caused by repeated polishing over wear on the leather as well absorption of oils and dyes on the seams. 2) Use AE Premium Polish (specific color to my AE’s) Today I was in an Australian department store and wanted to buy a pot of Angelus Wax polish. TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS I CURRENTLY USE, CLICK HERE, Video below brought to you by a collaboration between myself and Watch Anish. (But before I did that, I brushed the shoe down with a horsehair brush to remove dirt and dust, as well as took out the laces) Sometimes this can be done with this liquid and sometimes you can use alcohol spirits instead of nail polish remover or stuff even more soft like Renomat (see below). I love one American clunker: the good old Chicago Florsheim Kenmoor. – Do wax polishes and non-wax polishes(are they referred to as ‘creams’?) What’s the best way to clean the mud off fully before polishing? What do they do and are they necessary? If your shoes are still looking good, simply brush downs is all that will suffice to keep off the dust and dirt…. We used to all sit in the corridor with our shoes, cotton cloths and a tin of polish in the evenings (it was quite a social gathering to be honest!). Cream polish for £12 (ex vat £10), found at www.theshoesnob.com. That being, there are many factors that will play into this scenario, e.g. And to maintain the shine, you should just use this nylon to wipe down your shoe every night. As far as your concern, I really don’t shine the vamp as much as the toe, it would just appear that way, as I put a gloss on it that makes it look shiny, but it does not have that glass like consistency that the toe does. Or is it really a matter of getting the coat to harden i.e. Jerrell – I would use a wax polish that is as close to those as possible…or you can play around with them, use burgundy on the red, tan/brown on the blue and blue on the green…it’s just depends…if you use wax, you don’t really have to worry about affecting the colors, more so just playing around with the undertones…. I’ve used it and it seems to work better, it kind of melts the wax better (when using regular water, I had to work longer to make it shine). But then again on certain leathers, broken in shoes and especially plain toes, you can sometimes get away with polishing heavily on the vamp if the creases have already set in. My shoes thank you too. Brgds – only after the polish? Thanks to you I’ve just successfully finished restoring a pair of boots to beauty. I have here, too, �Grassa de Caballo� from �Panama Jack�, that seams to be wrong for that phase. Will all your items be available to buy online? If you just have the moist (or new) tin of wax polish, then you will just have to wait longer in between stages to allow the polish to dry on the leather…. It’s very nice of you to say. I wan’t to know what approach is best to get the highest polish possible on leather. Love the products and highly suggest your readers purchase from you as well ! Lou again – I shine it all the same my friend…and many exotics don’t take a shine anyway, not a real one at least…can’t comment on doing anything different as I don’t do anything different.. How often should someone shine their shoes, as you described in the post, for a pair of shoes that are warn three times a week? Thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience with us. Never even wore shoes before. Has this just happened as they are cheaper finished leather. I love the Edward Green shoe polish line. Therefore, the second time that you need to shine, it will only be a matter of a top up, not having to go through this process each time… At your rate, you might want to polish your shoes once ever other week or once every three weeks…it will really just depend on what happens to them when you do wear them…you will be able to gauge it…, Hello, Justin ! Whilst your instructions are all that I need for the ‘how’ to polish side of things, but for a shoe newbie like myself I need a bit more help on the ‘tools of the trade’ side in terms of what equipment I need. – It’s hard to say really what the problem at hand is here, but when I get stories like this, I tend to think that too much product was put on and when that happens the shoe has a hard time of drying out in order to complete the process. I hope that this helps. Those soles will crack and dry earlier because without scuffing that finish off there’s no way to feed the leather underneath. In the absence of time, shoe antiquing is done manually in one of two ways: Dying the leather with shades of the same color (less common; not recommended), Applying shoe polish in shades of similar color (more common; recommended). Be gentle. At least he did acknowledge that applying wax could prevent scuffs. It seems like it would be difficult to apply two different colors of polish to each tone, but I’m not familiar with using clear polishes either, and do not know how effective they are. If anything, using a neutral cream every fortnight just stained scuffed areas of my shoes are pulled out colour. But you will find that many light brown shoes these days, have a bit of a darker toe, called a burnish, that was added at the factory. Cacao: Use Saphir creme surfine light brown and waxes for color repair on the body of the shoe and Medium Brown wax to beef up the burnishing. I did not apply excess remover to those areas nor did I rub any harder than other areas. Our shoes are finished at our factory using Saphir Medaille d’Or waxes, and we have the exact ones to match on our site. My son (10) has a little shoe shine business. I do walk quite a bit but I am conscious to try not to scuff my shoes. deep rich glassy look it gives the shoe makes a shoe without the mirror shine look second rate. Dear Giorgio, no of course shoes don’t have to die, but there is no calculation that can prove this theory….like you stated, the variants of the equation will matter greatly…weather being a big factor….shoes have certainly outlived their owners, but whether or not they wore the pair over 1000 times would have been unknown to me….and to be honest, leather quality was not as good as it was 20-50 years ago, so whether or not the modern shoe can last that long, well I simply can’t say for sure, but in theory it should if treated properly…. The problem is the polish will not settle. Justin – thanks fir the great guide. How can I care better for the sole? lots of love for fine leather there After you break in your new shoes, the heel slippage will stop. I’ve grown to enjoy shining my shoes on a weekly to biweekly basis and look forward to it every Sunday (I tend to rotate between 3 pairs for work a week so I wear each pair twice a week). Is this worth the time? Would you say this is worthwhile? I was sceptical at first, but used your technique on a pair of old and abused brown slip on’s and the results were brilliant! Unfortunately, this advice seems ubiquitous. That being, I will still try and walk you through it. I have been a bootblack for 12 years and we have hereI am currently training to be a cobbler. Janine – Well done Janine!! There are two types of polishes: cream and wax. I love it. Nothing but a dull shoe. Thank you. Caelen – while I appreciate your enthusiasm for polishing shoes, I am afraid to say that I cannot go into more detail….even if I did it would be the same..you really only learn by doing it and learning from your mistakes…this is how I learned…I sat and watched people do it for days and could not get it down until I just kept going at it and learning from my mistakes…. Thomas – Thanks for sharing sir. Allow that to dry well, Then and only then, the nylon stocking. I went home and just brushed the dust off and the shine came back and seemed to be “set” Im using Saphir Glacage by the by. BTW, no need to use neutral…it will only leave white residue…, I tried to renovate one of my older slightly cheaper pair of Jeffrey west shoes (black line not my welted ones). Of course, suede shoes require a different approach. As you have already applied several layers of polish onto the shoe, you have a nice coat on by now which will allow you to directly add water to the mix, as in the old spit’n’shine. Works so well. Could be that many people like to emphasize the toe, adding more polish to it and not the rest of the shoe, therefore leaving a darker leather because of that. Oxblood: Use Saphir crème surfine cherry for color repair and Saphir Medaille d’Or pate de luxe – black to add that darker burnish on top to darken to your desired effect.

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